John Leeke's Historic HomeWorks™
	207 773-2306      26 Higgins St. Portland, ME  04103
	[Home][Library][Restoration Reports][Seminars][Forum][Internships][Office][Workshop][Front Porch][Search] info.© 1994-2007 JohnC.Leeke

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John Leeke's Historic HomeWorks(tm)

Insulation Holes in Clapboards

"We are removing 60-year-old cedar shingle siding from our 1885 Queen Anne and returning to the original clapboards. Last year we had fiberglass insulation blown in, and are replacing the plastic plugs with 1" wooden plugs. I have been told that prior to painting, we should sink the plugs slightly below the surface and fill the depressions. If that's the best advice, what should we use for filler?"

If the wood plugs will be in the original wood clapboards I would trim and fit the length of the plugs so they do not penetrate into the sheathing boards beneath. You want the clapboard to be completely independent from the sheathing, except as attached by the nails, per the intent of the original builders. To prevent the plugs from working loose over time use the same species of wood as the clapboards and cut the plugs so they have the same end-grain orientation (flat-grain or vertical-grain). This will assure the plug has the same expansion and shrinkage rate as the surrounding clapboard. Make the sides of the plug just slightly tapered. Prepare the sides of the hole and plug by applying epoxy consolidant, repeat on the end-grain surfaces until no more soaks in within 5 minutes. Finally seal the plugs in place with a mixture of epoxy consolidant and epoxy paste filler. Leave the surface of the plug slightly (perhaps 1/16") higher than the surrounding clapboard surface. After the epoxy has set completely trim flush with a sharp hand plane or sanding block.

Rehab Specifications

"I need to put together some specifications for a housing rehabilitation project. Do you know of potential sources of standard specifications for all aspects of housing (siding, roofing, wood work, plumbing etc.) of rehabilitation? This is for low income repairs so I really need basic materials, nothing fancy."

The Enterprise Foundation (410 772-2441) specializes in low income housing rehabilitation. They have a Master Rehab Spec book and computer disk as well as SPECMASTER software and workshops to train you in how to do rehab specifications.

For more detailed how-to treatments look up specific topics in back issues of the Old-House Journal (508 283-4721). OHJ has been published since the early 1970s and a cumulative index is available through 1989. Since then yearly indexes are published in the November/December issues.

Wood Floor Squeaks

"I just bought a 20 year old house that has some squeaky floors. I've tried screwing down through the top, pulling down with a special plate mounted on the bottom, and some of the other commercial products. The problem is not only do they not eliminate the squeak, it has NO EFFECT AT ALL!"

Squeaks usually occur when wood rubs against wood or against a nail. If you can't stop the movement with screws or special devices here is a solution that worked once for me. Use a mechanic's stethoscope available at some auto supply stores for under $20. You plug it into your ears just like a doctor's stethoscope. It has a long thin metal rod that picks up the sound. Have a friend make the floor squeak while you track down the exact location of the squeak. You might find it from the finish flooring above or from the rough flooring and joists below. Try to imagine the construction and joints of the flooring to picture in your mind which hidden parts are rubbing together. Then drill a 1/16" dia. hole to the exact surfaces that are rubbing together. Use a hypodermic needle to squirt a small amount of light lubricating oil between the surfaces. If the floor still squeaks you missed the exact location. Try again. If you had to drill through the finish floor, a 1/16" hole is easily filled with a bit of colored wax.

For more on how to use epoxies on exterior woodwork order the Practical Restoration Reports, Exterior Woodwork Details (10 pages, $9.95), and Epoxy Repairs for Exterior Wood (10 pages, $9.95) directly from Leeke.

John Leeke is a preservation consultant who helps homeowners, contractors and architects understand and maintain their historic buildings. You can contact him at 26 Higgins St., Portland, Maine, 04103; or by E-mail: johnleeke@HistoricHomeWorks.com; or log onto his website at: www.HistoricHomeWorks.com

Return to Q & A table of contents.

	John Leeke's Historic HomeWorks™
	207 773-2306      26 Higgins St. Portland, ME  04103
	[Home][Library][Restoration Reports][Seminars][Forum][Internships][Office][Workshop][Front Porch][Search] info.© 1994-2007 JohnC.Leeke