John Leeke's Historic HomeWorks™
	207 773-2306      26 Higgins St. Portland, ME  04103
	[Home][Library][Restoration Reports][Seminars][Forum][Internships][Office][Workshop][Front Porch][Search] info.© 1994-2007 JohnC.Leeke

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John Leeke's Historic HomeWorks(tm)

Avoid Light Switch Damage

I need to install a light switch in a plaster wall. What scares me is will I have enough room between studs to drop some cable? Also, what am I getting into as far as cutting the hole for switch box? If I use a sawzall or jigsaw will this create a clean cut or will the plaster crumble? Should I avoid cutting old plaster & recommend some kind if surface mount wiremold?

You're on the right track. We frequently use surface mount equipment to reduce damage to important original woodwork, plaster, wall paper and paints. Damage is limited to screw holes and possibly scuffing or scaring paint surfaces. Scuffing can be avoided by slipping a piece of paper behind the surface mount equipment. You might be able to avoid cutting into the wall all together. A new product called FiberSwitch(tm) can be entirely surface mounted with little disruption of original surfaces or finishes. The system uses a thin 1mm fiber-optic strand to connect a slim surface mounted switch plate to existing electrical outlets or circuits. The strand can be run in existing cracks, under wallpaper and along the edge of woodwork without being noticed. Since the switch is controlled by light you do not have to provide as much protection for the strand as for electrical cable. The cost per unit is about $40. The only disadvantage we find with this type of switch and "wiring" is that it is not standard or well-known. Future maintenance workers may not recognize the slim strand and end up disturbing or cutting it.

Wireless Control Systems, Inc.
PO Box 2558
Rapid City, SD 57709
605 341-8865
FiberSwitch(tm)

Leave Storm Windows Up

I am thinking about making wooden storm sash for my 1909 Foursquare. I know I saw an article about it in the Old House Journal some years back, but I can't remember the issue--can you tell me where it is? Also, do you think it is sensible to hinge them so that they can be opened in warm weather without having to take them down--quite a frightening thought on my three attic dormers thirty feet off the ground.

The article you are looking for is "Making & Hand-Fitting Wooden Storms, by William Houze, in the Sept.-Oct. 1989 issue. It is definitely a good idea to hinge them at the top. There are "loop and hook" fittings that act as hinges. You will also need special storm hooks that fasten the bottom of the window shut or hold it open. This traditional hardware setup sometimes allow you to remove and hang the storms from inside the house. This requires a lot of shoulder, arm and hand strength and is not easy to do. With in-swinging casement windows the sash open to give access through the whole window opening. Double hung sash may have to be remove, more of a task, but possibly safer than 3 story exterior ladder work. A convenient alternative is a combination storm/screen product made by Midwest Architectural Wood Products. This is a traditional looking screen with a wood frame. The prototype for this window was developed for the historic Liddig House, in Davenport, Iowa. A wood cross bar provides strength and can be custom-placed to match the position of your window's meeting rails. The frame is applied to the face of the exterior window casings in the usually way. Glass storm panel inserts can be slipped onto the interior side of the frame with the main window sash opened up. The panels are weather-stripped and seat flush into grooves, fastening with simple turn-buttons. Prices range from $50. to $170.. Extras such as bronze screen, bronze glazing extrusion and factory priming are available at additional cost.

Midwest Architectural Wood Products, Ltd.
300 Trails Rd.
Eldridge, IA 52748
319 285-8000
Wood Combination Storm Screen

John Leeke is a preservation consultant who helps homeowners, contractors and architects understand and maintain their historic buildings. You can contact him at 26 Higgins St., Portland, Maine, 04103, 207 773-2306; or by E-mail: johnleeke@HistoricHomeWorks.com; or log onto his website at:
www.HistoricHomeWorks.com

Return to Q & A table of contents.

	John Leeke's Historic HomeWorks™
	207 773-2306      26 Higgins St. Portland, ME  04103
	[Home][Library][Restoration Reports][Seminars][Forum][Internships][Office][Workshop][Front Porch][Search] info.© 1994-2007 JohnC.Leeke